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Trying to Give Up Riding

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  • That makes sense. Not a lot of shear force on that fitting. Rear tire would lose traction first.

    [edit]

    Got it back together. Now I need to adjust, align and tighten...... using my torque wrench....
    Last edited by Sorg67; 07-30-2020, 01:19 PM.

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    • 1mm difference in length will make little difference just as long as the bolt does not run out of thread and poke so far out it hits spokes or something.
      :/ In future buy your metric fasteners from a fastener supply house, the difference is; you won't be buying the cheapest bulk fasteners available, you will be asking for "graded" metric bolts. Graded bolts will have a number imprinted on the head or be of very obvious higher quality materials. Brake bolts will normally have a shoulder instead of being full thread.

      ... the tensile stress those bolts need to withstand are the forces on the threads (and bolt shank) required to torque them to specification. Bolts that need to be tightened more, need to withstand more stress without deformation.
      Last edited by Trials; 07-30-2020, 03:30 PM.

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      • Here you go, way more information then you asked for:
        I bet you can easy tell me which of the bolts in the picture is the stronger one


        Now picture the threads on that bolt pulling away from the bolt head.
        ... the threads pull on the bolt shank (the part that is not threaded)
        If I need to torque that bolt to a higher then average number (foot pounds or whatever) I will stretch that bolts shank, if the bolt is not sufficiently strong for the application

        Our motorcycle brake bolts :/ well the bolts that hold the two hydraulic parts together are very high stress bolts. The bolts that just hold the calliper to the leg is nothing special other then it is a graded bolt.

        Non-graded bolts as you would buy at retail hardware stores in bubble packs, well nobody is making any claims about what they are made from and therefore nobody knows how strong or weak they really are until they rust or break.

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        • The one I bought looks like the top one, except it has a flange. Fits fine. $1.89 at Ace Hardware.

          I plan to get the bike back together this weekend and take it for a test ride. Not going to change rear tire or bearings for now. Will see how long I am going to keep it.

          OEM part is on the way. Might change it out when it gets here. $5.95 plus $5.95 shipping.

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          • Holy you pay a lot more for hardware down there then I thought
            That should work.

            I was riding one of my trials bikes yesterday and it wasn't working so good, when I was hitting big rock faces it felt like I was grabbing a hand full of front brake at the worst possible moment. Turns out that is exactly what was happening :/ my front axle pinch bolt was loose, so the front fork legs were not moving up and down as one. Today I'm going to take it all apart, clean it, torque it all back down and make sure it didn't damage my titanium axle and test ride it to see if it still makes me crash when I do crazy stuff.

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            • Got everything tightened, adjusted and aligned and took it for a ride. Much smoother with the new chain. Shifting feels very solid, smooth and precise. Amazed at how much of a difference the new chain makes.

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              • Almost no vibration, very little rolling resistance

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