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Thread: Trying to Give Up Riding

  1. #161
    Flirting With The Redline 8000 Posts! Trials's Avatar
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    Yay
    My buddy just ordered a brand new Beta Pro Factory edition, should arrive in Perth any day now.
    he's in a rush he already has a beat up one.


  2. #162
    Flirting With The Redline 2000 Posts! Sorg67's Avatar
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    Looks like a fun toy.

  3. #163
    Flirting With The Redline 8000 Posts! Trials's Avatar
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    He's taking it pretty serious, this is his new wife.

  4. #164
    Flirting With The Redline 2000 Posts! Sorg67's Avatar
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    Replacement bolt may not be as special as I thought. 8x49 flange hex bolt. The 49 might be special. I wonder if 50 would work. 1 mm would seem to be within tolerance. Might be able to get close at Home Depot or Ace Hardware. Close enough?

    The bolt is a painted cast material of some sort. I wonder how important it is to get the correct material. I would assume that stainless steel would be stronger than what I have. But are there compatibility considerations with the metal type? Expansion and contraction with temperature?

    I wonder if I could get a close enough replacement to put the bike back together and then replace with OEM when it comes in. In a week or two I am guessing.

  5. #165
    RiderCoach 8000 Posts! WoodstockJeff's Avatar
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    Generally speaking, commonly-available stainless steel hardware is NOT as strong as steel hardware of the same size. It's stronger than aluminum, but you use SS when corrosion-resistance is more important than shear strength. Most applications, though, are not "on the edge" of shear strength.

    How hard do you intend to brake?
    Jeff

    "Remember when being socially distant was a symptom of a potentially debilitating mental disorder, instead of a government mandate? C'mon, it was just a few weeks ago!"

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  6. #166
    Flirting With The Redline 2000 Posts! Sorg67's Avatar
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    That makes sense. Not a lot of shear force on that fitting. Rear tire would lose traction first.

    [edit]

    Got it back together. Now I need to adjust, align and tighten...... using my torque wrench....
    Last edited by Sorg67; 07-30-2020 at 01:19 PM.

  7. #167
    Flirting With The Redline 8000 Posts! Trials's Avatar
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    1mm difference in length will make little difference just as long as the bolt does not run out of thread and poke so far out it hits spokes or something.
    :/ In future buy your metric fasteners from a fastener supply house, the difference is; you won't be buying the cheapest bulk fasteners available, you will be asking for "graded" metric bolts. Graded bolts will have a number imprinted on the head or be of very obvious higher quality materials. Brake bolts will normally have a shoulder instead of being full thread.

    ... the tensile stress those bolts need to withstand are the forces on the threads (and bolt shank) required to torque them to specification. Bolts that need to be tightened more, need to withstand more stress without deformation.
    Last edited by Trials; 07-30-2020 at 03:30 PM.

  8. #168
    Flirting With The Redline 8000 Posts! Trials's Avatar
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    Here you go, way more information then you asked for:
    I bet you can easy tell me which of the bolts in the picture is the stronger one


    Now picture the threads on that bolt pulling away from the bolt head.
    ... the threads pull on the bolt shank (the part that is not threaded)
    If I need to torque that bolt to a higher then average number (foot pounds or whatever) I will stretch that bolts shank, if the bolt is not sufficiently strong for the application

    Our motorcycle brake bolts :/ well the bolts that hold the two hydraulic parts together are very high stress bolts. The bolts that just hold the calliper to the leg is nothing special other then it is a graded bolt.

    Non-graded bolts as you would buy at retail hardware stores in bubble packs, well nobody is making any claims about what they are made from and therefore nobody knows how strong or weak they really are until they rust or break.

  9. #169
    Flirting With The Redline 2000 Posts! Sorg67's Avatar
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    The one I bought looks like the top one, except it has a flange. Fits fine. $1.89 at Ace Hardware.

    I plan to get the bike back together this weekend and take it for a test ride. Not going to change rear tire or bearings for now. Will see how long I am going to keep it.

    OEM part is on the way. Might change it out when it gets here. $5.95 plus $5.95 shipping.

  10. #170
    Flirting With The Redline 8000 Posts! Trials's Avatar
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    Holy you pay a lot more for hardware down there then I thought
    That should work.

    I was riding one of my trials bikes yesterday and it wasn't working so good, when I was hitting big rock faces it felt like I was grabbing a hand full of front brake at the worst possible moment. Turns out that is exactly what was happening :/ my front axle pinch bolt was loose, so the front fork legs were not moving up and down as one. Today I'm going to take it all apart, clean it, torque it all back down and make sure it didn't damage my titanium axle and test ride it to see if it still makes me crash when I do crazy stuff.

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