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Thread: BB @ 50. 01 VSTAR issue

  1. #1

    BB @ 50. 01 VSTAR issue

    Traded my 14' John boat for my first bike as a 50th birthday present to myself July 5th. It's a VStar 650 classic, great paint job with ma y accessories. It was supposed to have been serviced but I don't think it was properly. Right fork is leaking on the caliper but I still may aged to put almost 2k miles on it before it died.

    After topping it off 3wks ago with 97 grade (I now know better), it had difficulty starting & died 4x before it ran ok. Next day it wouldn't start & I ended up burning the starter solenoid up. Got a cheap one on eBay & it cranks now.

    Didn't start until I took the air filter off (it was clogged & oily) but only ran for about a minute. Took the tank off, drained it & put 87 in, changed one fuel filter (new lawn mower filter).

    Replaced the plugs, spark is good, tank has good vent but it just cranks. Sometimes I'll see smoke from the pipes. It backfired twice before I took the filter off.

    Any ideas?

    Dave
    01 vstar 650 classic

  2. #2
    Flirting With The Redline 8000 Posts! Trials's Avatar
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    If in doubt, clean the carburetors. All of the dirt and water will accumulate in the lower portion of the float bowls, if your forks and filters went untouched for the life of the bike, then your carburetors are probably in the same boat.

  3. #3
    Flirting With The Redline 8000 Posts! Trials's Avatar
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    btw: high test fuel was Not the cause of your problems unless that fuel was polluted.

  4. #4
    Senior Moderator We've stopped counting... subvetSSN606's Avatar
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    High test could have suppressed ignition, but if that were the case it would have cleared up once it was drained and replaced with regular.
    In the end, regrets rarely come from things done, but from things not even tried.


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    Flirting With The Redline DUISparky's Avatar
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    I ran high test exclusively in my V-Star 650 for years and never had any issues. My thoughts would be, has the bike sat for extended periods of time? Gas can do very bad things to the insides of your tank and fuel lines, filters, carbs, etc. if it sits stagnant in there for long stretches. I'd be for tearing apart the entire fuel delivery system and giving it a thorough cleaning.
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  6. #6
    RiderCoach 4000 Posts! NORTY's Avatar
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    A "clogged & oily" air filter tells me the bike either~ has/had too much oil in it, or, was flogged enough to where the air volume in the crankcase couldn't keep up with the air moving around in it, thus "picking up oil" and transferring it to the air cleaner.

    First bike, you say? Hmmm....
    Knowledge speaks, wisdom listens.

  7. #7
    Flirting With The Redline 8000 Posts! Trials's Avatar
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    If you guys ever feel the urge to drain the high test out of your tanks
    send it here I'll get rid of it for you

  8. #8
    Update: after rechecking the spark, there is none. Checked the coils. Output was intermittent to 0, so I found some used ones. It did pop once. After looking at the clymer manual to test the ignition diode they show an 11 pin, I have a 16 pin diode.

    I've checked the plugs, wires, battery, coils. The very random "pop" tells me something is trying to work. My gut says it might be the pickup coil but not sure.

  9. #9
    Flirting With The Redline 8000 Posts! Trials's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DSmith View Post
    Update: after rechecking the spark, there is none. Checked the coils. Output was intermittent to 0, so I found some used ones. It did pop once. After looking at the clymer manual to test the ignition diode they show an 11 pin, I have a 16 pin diode.

    I've checked the plugs, wires, battery, coils. The very random "pop" tells me something is trying to work. My gut says it might be the pickup coil but not sure.
    If it has 16 pins, it's a lot more then just a diode. Diode is a solid state component that has 2 wires, one in, one out. Electricity will only flow through a diode in one direction, hence they can be used to rectify (make AC or alternating current behave like DC direct current). The rectifier circuit, which actually uses several diodes in formation is generally packaged along with a regulator circuit. The task of the regulator circuit is to attempt to maintain a workable voltage which otherwise would be all over the place depending on how fast your engine is turning.

    What's a "pickup coil" typically you have 2 or 3 field coils located in close proximity to your crankshaft and those produce the electricity. You also have a crank position sensor which tells your engine when it is time to fire and that component would normally replace the task that contact breaker points would be used for. Each of those 2 or 3 field coils needs to have some continuity and the correct measurable resistance during testing, those coils feed the high voltage coils that are directly connected to your spark plugs and those coils are tested separately.

    The fact that the bike was running initially, all be it poorly, would suggest to me that your coils are maybe ok, remember that any parts that exist in duplicate can be switched to help determine if there is a problem with only one of the two. When doing your testing start from the power source and move along to the next assembly.

    Oh and remember that safety devices (things like side stand switches or neutral indicator or clutch actuator cut out switches) are probably your first and most likely source of electrical failure.

  10. #10
    RiderCoach 8000 Posts! WoodstockJeff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trials View Post
    Oh and remember that safety devices (things like side stand switches or neutral indicator or clutch actuator cut out switches) are probably your first and most likely source of electrical failure.
    And a motorcycle that doesn't run is much safer than one that does....

    The diode assembly can easily have more than two pins, depending upon how many phases the generator has.
    Jeff

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