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View Full Version : Running the Notch and Shooting the Gap



Sparky
09-25-2005, 11:43 AM
Part I

The past week has not been pleasant. Work has been backed up, and on Wednesday I received an unpleasant telephone call from my mother. My missing cousin turned up...when her weirdo next-door neighbour confessed to killing her. Reading the words "dismemberment" about a family relation--even if she wasn't close--is always a shock. So I was feeling rather like a cabin boy's backside after a long voyage in the age of sail by the time Friday rolled around.

Luckily, the sunny weather held for one more day. I'd been planning a ride into Vermont for that Saturday anyway. With the bad news, I needed a serious distraction. Lovely scenery and avoiding become part of it sounded like a dandy cure for the blues. On the evenings after the phone call, I'd spread out my map of New England to trace a route through the back roads of Vermont. I decided to do a couple of roads I'd missed while passing through on trips last year. I'd heard about Route 108 through Smuggler's Notch and the Appalachian Gap on Route 17 between Irasville and Bristol. These have a reputation for being twisty indeed. They also lie in some of the prettiest countryside in New England. I traced a mix of expressway and backroads to get me down to the border in the quickest time I could.

Saturday morning dawned cold and sunny. I spent a little more time than usual prepping the bike. Usually I just check lights and tire pressure, given that my building's driveway is an incline. I rolled her into the garage onto level ground to check coolant and oil. My usual nervousness before any trip manifested in a tell-tale tantrum about being unable to top up the pressure in my front tire. I groused until I noticed the valve-adapter of my handheld pump had loosened. A bit of tightening and everything was copacetic. The bike revved rather higher than usual in the cold, dry air of the driveway. I saw the tach flicker at 4000rpm at times! I geared up until Wow settled down in my full outfit. I wasn't going to make the same mistake as I did in May, when I headed for a ride in the mountains of Vermont without putting in the liner of my armoured jacket. No jeans either--at highway speeds, I wear my polyester overpants over jeans for what abrasion protection I can get. Next year I have to look into leather or proper cordura overpants, for sure. In went the earplugs before the helmet went on to avoid getting zonked from the wind noise at highway speeds. By the time gloves were on, boots tied, and goggles in place my scooter was at a warm idle.

For the first time, I used the major urban autoroutes to get out instead of surface streets and the Victoria Bridge. It made a considerable difference. Usually I have to crawl through suburban sprawl on the South Shore. Now I was hustling across the Champlain Bridge with the roar of the intake dimly heard over the wind. Faster, but less scenic than the Pont Victoria. I missed glancing to the side every so often for views of the St. Lawrence. Doing that on the Champlain Bridge at it's expressway speeds and traffic would have been suicide. I arched along the 10 and 35 down to Iberville where the 133 starts. 133 is the slower provincial route leading to I-89 in Vermont. It's not particularly scenic--mostly just flat farmland and the odd village. It was nice seeing certain familiar landmarks pass by, particularly the strip joint just outside of Iberville.... Erm, not that I've ever been inside. *ahem* I arched away from 133 on the 202, a side route paralleling the border. Just short of Dunham I turned onto 237, leading to the border control point south of Freilighsburgh. They were doing repaving on the section I was on. A considerable relief from Quebec's usual washboard pavement. Although for some reason the area south of Freiglighsburgs was the nastiest stretch on the route. Anti-invasion measures left over from 1812?

My kidneys were shake-rattled-and-rolled when I got to the border point. I had my passport out and helmet off to speed up the entire "are you an Al-Quaeda infiltrator?" interview. Getting to the bathroom became a priority! After *cough* emptying the coolant tank, I swerved onto Route 108 for the ride to the Notch. 108 goes straight south from the Canadian line, passing by Lake Carrimi and through the uplands of the Vermont mountains. This is dairy country--small villages, upland meadows and fields, herds of horses and cows munching on the last green grass of autumn. The roads wind about the valleys, meandering up rolling hills and dales under the clear blue sky. It's a gentle, swooping ride where you just keep the speedo at 50mph and get into the spirit of the road. There's no point in wicking up the engine. The curves aren't sharp enough to call for peg scraping, and there's just enough straights to allow for glances off to the side to drink in the beauty of the land. The idling through villages like Enosburg Falls lets you see the distinctive Federal style homes typical of Vermont small-town architecture.

Then I hit the Notch. One may notice a certain ominous tone to that phrasing. I consider myself decent in curves. I try to late-apex and hit my lines. I practise every so often on Rememberence Drive running over Mount Royal, which requires one to do some leaning. I was not at all prepared for Route 108 running through Smuggler's Notch. The Notch is a stretch running north from Stowe through a tight, twisting pass of looming granite cliffs. I saw said cliffs very briefly before my backside--to continue the cabin boy metaphor--clenched from 20 gauge to .410 in seconds. My confidence shrank very, very fast. The Notch has the hallmarks of a bike-eater. The road narrows to one lane with no centerline, woods on either side, steep cambers, and the road S-curves like a snake on crack. I tried remembering everything I knew about slow-look-lean-roll and the vanishing point. Didn't work. I kept the bike upright, but rolled onto the narrow shoulder in one curve. Later at a stop I saw a small scuff on the rear corner of the CVT casing where I'd grounded it out. By the end I'd been taught some serious lessons about over-confidence. Though, to my credit, I never dumped the bike.

Sparky
09-25-2005, 11:44 AM
Part II

I breathed a big sigh of relief when I made it to Stowe. I had time to calm down in, funny enough, the only gridlock of the entire trip. Stowe is a ski town and local tourist center. Lots of "leafers" and people in for doing the outdoorsy thing. My radiator fan came on as I stop and goed through a town smaller than my own neighbourhood! I turned off down Route 100 heading for Waitesfield and Irasville. 100 is a fabled road that runs down the line of the Green Mountains of Vermont. Pretty much every major ski area touches it. Once it gets below I-89 at Waterbury the mountains rise, becoming more rugged and closer to the road than in the northern hill country. It is gentle enough up until Waitesville and Irasville, two villages that merged together in the combination of Yankee charm and hippie cuteness Vermont is known for. Waitesville has the requisite aspects for a Vermont village--a red barn, a covered bridge, pretty buildings, and a local artisan's gallery/thrift store staffed by former flower children. It's stereotypical enough to be funny. Still, quite pretty if you have a tolerance for that kind of thing.

I gassed up at the pumps at the grocery store. There was an older black man leaning on a cherry-red Suzuki Marauder in the parking lot. After paying for the gas, I chatted with him while munching on a cake to get some energy into me. As it turns out, Curtis was a Washington DC cop who got his bug for biking when he did scooter-cop training on a Vespa! He moved up to Vermont and rides the local backroads with his '97 Marauder. He was the friendliest biker I ever met, and admired my Bet & Win 250. He also helped me calm down. While talking with him I began shaking. Either from the delayed reaction from my misadventure on the Notch or from the cold air that had sapped my strength despite my precautions of bundling up. Or both. My teeth were chattering and hands shaking. He very kindly gave me a cigarette while we nattered about HP and the roads. Turns out he knew the Notch very well. He revealed there was no shame in terror--he did it only enough to handle it, and refuses to ride it again. It's great to find such a kindred spirit, and a unique experience in meeting a black motorcyclist. You don't see that many of them.

I wandered about taking a few pics after scarfing down a sausage and meatball sub from the lunch counter at the gas-station/grocery. Then, gathering my courage, I headed down the road to the turn-off at Route 17. Vermont 17 leads into a fabled stretch of road in the Northeast called the Appalachian Gap. The Gap is another mountain pass, much wider than the Notch. The two laner running west from Irasville turned into a glorious collection of curves running uphill. If the Notch is a slasher movie, the Gap is a David Attenborough epic. The road is a proper two lane with great pavement. Woods touched with just a tinge of red or yellow amid the greenery flank either side. I crested the Gap...and gaped. What I beheld was a mountain pass widening into a valley, piercing through the center of the Green Mountains. Below the road curves into the woods. I held my breath, took a few snaps...and shoved off into the twisties. Friends, this was worth the ride. I did much better. Not an A ride, mind. I still have the bad habit of running hot into turns and really trusting the lean. One one 20mph-posted right hand downhill hairpin, I came close to running over the double yellow. Didn't cross, though, and that's the important thing. The Gap humbled me but in a respectful way. My blood was pumping with exhilaration when I reached the gentled rise and fall of road along the floor of the Gap. Hairpins, decreasing radius turns, sharp S curves...it's a roller coaster of a ride the whole way down. It may be the best ride I'll ever be on, until the day I do the Dragon down south.

Towards Bristol it curves in 40mph sweepers that give an extra dollop of sweetness to the ride. Lincoln Gap Road tempted me to make a triangle back to Route 100; the Lincoln Gap is another scenic twisty, although less famous than SR 17. But I was done with roller-coasters for the day. I swooped down out of the Green Mountains into the open territory of the Champlain Valley. Most people think of Vermont as mountains. Yet west of the Mountains, in a broad valley cupping the "other Great" Lake Champlain, is a land of fields and tiny villages. 17 continues winding about in this land among the wrinkles in the landscape left behind by the glaciers of the last ice age. It was a chance to gape at the landscape instead of being on the verge of joining it. Around and about I ran at about 50-55, until I dashed over the bridge at the southern end of the lake to New York. Looming above were the mountains of upstate New York--the fabled Adirondacks--that form the western wall of the Champlain Valley. It reminded me of coming upon the Rockies west of Calgary, looming above the surrounding land like a rampart.

Up and to the north on NY 9/22. The road curves along the eastern edge of the Adirondacks, with 20-30mph curves abounding. You flash past farm clearings and plunge into the woods. Every so often, a gap appears at a bend where you see the great expanse of Lake Champlain gleaming in the sun. It was a ride that restored my confidence after the tasking I had taken in Vermont. It's just plain *fun*. I took 22 where it branched off from where Route 9 continues into the heart of the Adirondacks. I flashed through Moriah and into Essex, a small lakeside town with a ferry across to Charlotte, VT. I didn't cross that day. Instead, I loitered for a half hour letting engine and mind cool. I browed in a knick-knack store, picking up an inexpensive housewarming gift for my sister and her partner. More of the same on 22 until, 4 miles south of Keesville, I was faced with the choice of I-87 or meandering through Plattsburgh on 9 to Rouse's Point on the frontier. This time I chose the fast dash to Champlain and then on to Montreal. I was tired and it was time to head home.

I had a minor terror attack as I waited in customs. I'd run down the tank on my Bet & Win until the last bar on the digital gas gauge went off. The low fuel idiot light came on. From experience, at one or two bars I had two litres of fuel left in the tank. The idiot light meant I was into my reserve. I fumed as, idling, I crept to Douanes (Canada Customs) in a short line-up. I very quickly got through the border check before jamming the throttle, madly seeking gas. Luckily, there was one a few klicks up the road on the turn off to Hemmingford. I had just a litre left in the tank, it seems. Nice to know the reserve is there, but it wouldn't have been fun to push a 348 pound scooter along the verge of an expressway to an off ramp. Fueled and caffeinated with a Pepsi, I dashed north on Autoroute 15 to the Champlain Bridge and home.

I put a good 300-400km on the scooter in a day, and it functioned like a champ (barring being a little grumpy waking up in the early morning). Kymco builds a fine scooter!

Sparky

Mer
09-25-2005, 02:28 PM
What.......no pictures?http://yelims.free.fr/Groumph/Triste10.gif

Sparky
09-25-2005, 09:14 PM
What.......no pictures?http://yelims.free.fr/Groumph/Triste10.gif


...as I can download them off the camera and stick 'em on the web, you'll get 'em. :)

Sparky

asp125
09-25-2005, 09:29 PM
Great post, very descriptive writing! :thumbsup:

Mer
09-25-2005, 09:58 PM
...as I can download them off the camera and stick 'em on the web, you'll get 'em. :)

Sparky
Thanks Sparky...I'll be waiting!! :chopper:

christhisguy
09-25-2005, 10:05 PM
Right on Sparky!!!

Good on ya for taking some "personal time" to ride, after all you've been dealing with lately.

Keep it up!

Cheers.

subvetSSN606
09-25-2005, 10:50 PM
Bravo!

Tom